Alaska Day 18

It seemed in Fairbanks that it was time to go home? We were certainly not tired of Alaska! And we certainly hadn’t seen it all. But we knew we wouldn’t when we came. :) We just had a handful of destinations we had hoped to see if the weather and circumstances permitted. And amazingly we’d seen all of them, plus a few more, with excellent weather and at a peaceful pace. :) We had initially allowed a month for this journey of a life time. A week to get there, and week to get home, and two weeks in Alaska. But we’d had almost no adverse weather to slow us down, and now our internal clocks and hearts were turning toward home. :)

With a sense of great accomplishment and joy in what we’d attempted, accomplished, and seen — and knowing we had the week-long, continuing adventure of flying home ahead of us, we decided today was the day.  We’d fly toward home, exiting Alaska where we entered at Northway, and spending the night in Canada’s Yukon at Beaver Creek on the border.

Fairbanks continued to impress us, as the hotel van drove us to the general aviation side of the airport. It just had a good Alaskan feel to it that’s hard to explain. A nice place to live and fly out of, yet with lots a services and social opportunities being the second largest city in the state. And with outdoor recreational opportunities unlimited, year round. Not the least of these — back country flying. :)

After looking over the many long rows of beautiful back country airplanes on big tires and floats, we walked out to ours and after the customary loading and preflighting, we were  climbing out on a perfect day looking over the city and airport from the air, heading  SE and home. We’d join the ALCAN at Delta Junction, it’s northern most point, and follow it back across the Yukon and British Columbia to it’s starting point at Dawson Creek, where it more or less dumps us out onto the plains of Alberta in western Canada.

Did I mention this day, August 9th, was my 42nd wedding anniversary? :) What a great wife I have to support me being gone on this day, to accomplish this dream adventure! I had tried to make it up to her with an anniversary present of seeing a Broadway play in NYC with our son while I was gone, flowers (several) delivered to her office on this day, and a scavenger hunt around our home every few days with poems, clues, and fun surprises. But still?! You men out there know, this is not a good thing! :)

To my surprise, I found an anniversary card on my pillow at the hotel this morning? Along with a small stuffed teddy bear. :) Then a card in my airplane seat at the airport? Then one at lunch on the glare shield? None of our bunch would confess to complicity or any knowledge with blank stares and upraised palms and shrugged shoulders when I looked at them? But unless there lives an Alaskan anniversary fairy, one of more of them was being deceiving. :) What a great wife I have! :) The last card was delivered to my pillow at Beaver Creek, Yukon that night. :):)

We hadn’t seen any large, land Alaskan wildlife yet!? Surprising to us! So the decision was made to fly today lower than usual when we were over marshes, lakes, rivers, or anything that looked like good moose, caribou, or bear habitat. Doing so, we found several small groups of moose and photographed some of them. :) At last!

Of course we would fuel at Tok, an almost compulsory stop because we needed gas, and also because of Fast Eddy’s at mile marker 1313 right on the ALCAN and right across from the airport. :) We loved that place! :)

Back in the air we resumed our moose and bear patrols, until we noticed we were about to be late for our Canadian border crossing  time specified on our flight plans. When it was mentioned by Shep over the radio, Dwayne who was leading this flight headed our two ship straight for the border and Beaver Creek. We landed and cleared customs by phone, as no one was there to meet us. Then the owner, operator of our quaint hotel showed up and drove us the short distance into town. There we had dinner at Buckshot Betty’s, and a good night’s sleep… east of Alaska, but north … in Canada. :) 

 On our way … home.

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Alaska Day 17

The Walk Thru The Woods Was Early Morning Fresh

As we got around for a leisurely breakfast, Dwayne invited any or all to join him on a walk back into town to view a video on climbing Mt. McKinley/Denali shown at the Nat.Park Visitor Center. Climbing has fascinated me and become more real to me since reading Wager With the Wind. No one joined me, opting for rest or other activity before we began the day’s flying journey to Denali National Park and Fairbanks. :)

Good Early Morning Sunlight With Few Folks Stirring

So I went alone, enjoying the film and the walk very much. Each of us at times found time and places for solitude along the journey which was a very good thing. This was one of my times. I wish I had a copy of the video, it was so fascinating and informative. Among many other things, I learned that even though there are higher mountains, Denali is considered by climbers as the toughest or most challenging, sort of the holy grail of climbing. There is a climbing season and only so many groups are allowed to attempt the ascent each year after receiving screening and safety briefings from the Park Service who has jurisdiction and attempts as much as possible to look out for the climber’s well being and the mountain’s well being. The ascent is made without supplemental oxygen, and the climbers must take a slower ascent to acclimate to the rare air as they climb and camp on ice and granite, prepared for frequent storms and amazingly strong winds. Many people make it, yet there have been and continue to be fatalities. I’ve come to believe these climbers are some of the worlds most courageous and well conditioned athletes, willingly facing adversity, and fiercely  committed to each other. I can see why it’s the material drama, heroism, ecstasy, and honor are made from. And I can see more clearly why Don Sheldon admired these men and women, and would risk his own life over and over to try and save them when the need arose. I think back to the book and a team of climbers that deeply touched him, young women from Japan.

The Stuff Legends Are Made Of :)

The inspiring film under my belt, rather in my heart, I thanked the park ranger on duty, and headed out for the final walk thru tiny Talkeetna and back to the lodge. It was then I noticed a well marked hiking trail that went toward the river. It couldn't be much farther, I thought, so I joined it and soon, very soon, found myself on the banks of the Susitna River with it’s roar and rushing brown/green glacial waters. But that’s not all! I looked up and there was a breath taking view of Denali, once again in the clear, not obscured by clouds. Wow! This sight and experience had been here all along and we didn't’ know it. We’d probably walked within 200 yards of it at the west end of town a number of times. :) Well it was my day to discover it, and I didn’t want to leave. I noticed a local young man, dressed a bit like a cowboy, sitting on the dirt bank of the river with his legs hanging over the edge, drinking a cup of coffee, and drinking in the amazing scene. I quietly joined him, at some distance so as not to disturb his tranquility and solitude.  I was experiencing my own. And I’ll never forget it.

How Could I Not Take This Trail?

Robert Frost Would Be So Proud... :)

The guys were not in a hurry. None of us had been the whole trip. :) That was one of the beautiful things about it. :) But I started to feel a little guilty for being gone so long, so I left (certainly did not rush away) the awesome sight and started my enjoyable, peaceful amble for the last time through the town, through the white-barked birch woods, and to the lodge.

The guys were packed up, as was I before I left, but just milling around. They were happy for me and my discovery, which heightened all or our anticipation of our morning flight. We asked if someone from the lodge could give us a ride to our airplanes. This was due to our bags, because it was close enough to walk otherwise. One of the servers at the restaurant was just getting off work and volunteered. So we were soon airborne in the usual, enjoyable, methodical fashion and flying north again toward Mt. Denali, and Denali National Park.

Not many US National Parks have their own grass strip to serve aviators, but this one does, in keeping with the uniqueness of Alaska, and it’s fondness for freedom and the utility of airplanes. We made a formation approach and close trail landing at the picturesque strip. We experienced more wind than we expected and were surprised that it shifted to a tail wind upon landing. Which made for a little excitement and a little more fun, as we both rolled toward the end to get stopped. :) We pushed our airplanes back away from the runway, tied them down, and walked across the Alaskan Railway tracks and right into the park entrance. :) Beautiful and amazing. Where can you do something like that in the lower forty-eight? :) To top it off, the train came by for our enjoyable viewing just as we were through securing our planes. :) And did I mention, the train up here between Talkeetna and Denali is a flag service. That is, if you need a ride, you make your way to somewhere along the tracks, and wave a flag at the approaching train. The conductor will see you, stop the train for you to board, and continue the route. What a state! What a country!! :)

This park, and this park headquarters is impressive. There are so many interruptive displays, mounted animals, historical exhibits, etc. that it will fill the most inquisitive persons appetite for knowledge. And, there is a nice restaurant too! Very nice, I will add. :) So lunch was had here after about an hour of looking around and the realization we couldn’t see it all. :)

 We made the short walk back to our airplanes, and were off to Fairbanks, the most northern point of our Alaskan adventure and our home for the night. We flew by an air force base where Ken’s brother Keith was stationed for a year a few years back and took photos in his honor. The terrain and scenery was varied and different from  any we’d experienced to this point as we were leaving the Alaskan Range and flying up the north slope toward the Arctic Circle. Still it was rugged and beautiful with lots of hills, streams, forrest, and lakes. But less forrest than before and more scrub brush and open land. And Fairbanks? There is a lot to say about Fairbanks, but this has gotten too long already, so I’ll cover that perhaps in tomorrow’s departure blog?

Shep found us a hotel. Doug found us a dinner place, but not just any place. It was a genuine Alaskan Salmon Bake, with fresh fish and fixin’s prepared right in front of us, served outdoors on picnic tables under a grove of aspen trees. Are you kidding me? :) Well it was as good as it sounds, and plentiful. :) We caught the same bus back to our hotel, and began the obligatory card games. This was followed by a good night's sleep, and the realization that the Alaskan part of our trip was almost over. Tomorrow we would fly SE, join the ALCAN, and cross into Canada at Beaver Creek, beginning  the long, beautiful road home. But tonight we’re sleeping, and dreaming, north … in Alaska.


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Alaska Day 16

Doug and Dwayne were up early and shortly joined by Shep and Ken for breakfast at our Talkeetna home, the Swiss Alaskan Inn. Then we walked to our airplanes and took off to the south. As soon as we were airborne and above the trees, each of us craned our necks to the north to see if Mt. Denali was visible or shrouded in the normal weather and clouds? To our delight it was clearly visible with hardly any clouds and excellent visibility some fifty miles away. :):):):)

But there was little time to enjoy the view at the moment, because Ken who was leading this morning’s flight, had made a quick turn to the north, put his flaps down, and called “short final for the Village Airstrip.” I quickly reacted by doing a S turn to get a little  spacing and followed him in close trail to a formation landing on the pristine, short, grass strip. Mainly due to Ken’s prop wash, perhaps exacerbated by the Susitna River, light winds, and the tightly tree-lined strip we had the most impressive wake turbulence  event I have ever experienced about 50’ above the ground! But some quick reaction with abrupt control inputs and we righted ourselves and touched down with a burst of power to increase control effectiveness. Seconds later we shut down, climbed out, and Doug surprised me by calling an impromptu aviator meeting and awarding me the “Maule Flying Cross” for the landing. :) After a short round of applause and handshakes, we forgot all about that, and reveled in the amazement of landing and standing on the very field Don Sheldon had departed and landed, on his many, many rescue flights of Mt. McKinley climbers needing help and Alaskan bush hunters or outdoorsman in need of rescue. If you’re an outdoorsman, aviator, or adventurer, Don Sheldon’s story, “Wager With The Wind,” is a must read. We enjoyed several minutes there just letting it sink in. :) Quietly chatting, and looking around at the strip, the river, and the town — all in the shadow of Mt. Denali, “The Great One.”

Speaking of Denali, it was time to climb back in and fly toward the mountain. The idea was for us to change lead a few times and each crew photograph the other plane in front of the giant mountain soaring to it’s peak at 20, 230’, the tallest on the American continent. It was a delight to just see the monolith on a clear day, and to have photos of our planes in front of it was special indeed.

In fact we kept making circuits in front of it, admiring it and taking pictures, when someone remarked on the radio, “We’re borderline late for our glacier flight!” Quickly we turned our flight of two and sped toward the airport, landed, fueled, tied down, and walked fast or jogged to K2 Aviation, and the appointed time of our chartered flight-seeing adventure to Mt. Denali, complete with a glacier landing on skis. Something similar to what Don Sheldon did hundreds of times on many different glaciers, often in less than optimum weather.

The smiling girl at the counter remarked, “You’re just in time.” :) We were handed our ice boots and directed to the briefing area where the pilot of our turbo Otter was starting his roll call and briefing. Soon we were airborne, climbing out in a beautiful red airplane perfectly matched for it’s mission with lots of power for the altitude and lift for the landing. Also the speed to cover the distance from Talkeetna to the mountain quickly before slowing to make many turns with awe filled splendor no matter where you looked, and then the beautiful glacier landing.

We touched down, deplaned and spent about thirty minutes in the rare air and rare beauty of Mt. Denali, now surrounding us, and still towering close above us. Far above us. It was quiet, peaceful, surreal. It would seem a dream if you didn’t see the others in your party milling around, gazing, quietly chatting about it, and two other bright red planes from the same fleet who by coincidence were there at the same time. Even so, it seemed like a dream to be there. Remote, on ice, towering granite all around, with friends, on a clear day. Amazing.

We had ample time to soak in the moment and soak in the grandeur. And at the same time we were airborne again too soon, as we all felt we could have spent hours there. Leaving the flanks of McKinley, we soared down glaciers through passes to the flat but rugged river valley below and back to Talkeetna, with a smile on our lips and in our hearts from having experienced something so unique, majestic, and special.

We enjoyed a late lunch/early supper, walked around the village some more, and returned to our lodging for the now customary card games, recounting the special day’s activities, and a good night sleep… north in Alaska. :):):):)



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Alaska Day 15

After breakfast in Seward, we packed up and took a short cab ride to the airport and our awaiting Maules. Soon we were airborne and flying north toward Anchorage and beyond to our destination for the next couple days, Talkeetna. We decided on a slightly different route than our ingress to Seward to see some new territory. But the scenery was just as beautiful and dramatic as we flew over Six Mile Creek and Hope Alaska before heading toward Anchorage.

We talked to Anchorage ATC, but they scarcely paid us any attention as we flew up against the mountains at low altitude and stayed east of their busy airline and military airspace. Once clear of the Anchorage area we turned our steady steads NNW toward Talkeetna. But we passed near Willow AK, and decided to land and look it over. It’s the largest of many typical airstrips with associated lakes or float plane bases in the area. There was also a pilot there we’d visited by phone who flew a Maule in his back country bush flying business. We’d hoped to meet him, but he took off as we were taxing to park. :) Oh well, we decided to dismount anyway and look the place over, which was worthwhile and interesting. 

Then it was north to Talkeetna. We flew over the town and area before landing at the newer state owned strip, but took note of the grass Village Airstrip Don Sheldon and others used in the past. We took a taxi to our nearby hotel which was easy walking distance to both the airport and, via a path thru the woods to Talkeetna. Once settled in we walked to the airport to arrange a glacier landing and Denali flight seeing flight the next day.:):):) Then we walked into town via the wooded path to explore and have dinner.

Talkeetna is charming, colorful, small, and vintage Alaska. Besides browsing the shops and looking over the restaurant possibilities, we visited the National Park Headquarters a few minutes before it closed. Then we wandered back to the Village Airstrip to look it over from the ground, planning to land our Maules on it the following day. It was something we both wanted to do to connect more with the rich aviation history that was birthed and lived out in Talkeetna, sort of a bush pilot right of passage.:) It looked fine to us, and we decided it would be our first stop the next day.

Then we enjoyed a nice dinner with beverages made locally by the Alaska Brewing Company, before walking back through the woods to our hotel and the evening card game. :) But we had a nice surprise en route — a nice view of an Alaskan Railroad train. At the edge of town where we joined our wooded trail, we crossed the tracks of the famous train from Anchorage to Fairbanks which stops in Talkeetna. We were lucky enough on this day to see, photograph, and experience it. :)

With our nightly card games in the history books, we nodded off to sleep reflecting on the wonderful trip, the wonderful weather, and wonderful times we had experienced to this juncture. And with keen anticipation, we reflected on what our next day in Talkeetna might hold, with it’s Denali discovery flight and a glacier landing on the mountain!  Also landing on the Village Airstrip and flying our own airplanes around Mt. Denali and the area?

Who might we meet? What else would we see? North … in Alaska?

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Seems with tires in AK, it's go big or go home! :)